Tuesday 18 September 2018

Can you see me?

We’re in Albania! I can’t quite believe I’ve written that. We had a fleeting glance at Istanbul through the airport windows too – the distant sea and mountains calling us to stop and visit next time.

We’re staying in a Christian Guest House in the middle of the Capital city, Tirana. This part of the trip is like visiting any Southern European Capital. We ate supper at a pavement restaurant last night and had breakfast in a bright modern dining room – delicious ‘Greek’ salad last night, excellent coffee this morning (I’m very happy about the coffee…). Tonight, we’re going for a walk before dinner to sightsee – we’ve already seen the huge Catholic and Orthodox Cathedrals, the markets round the corner – selling a mindboggling range of cheese, fish, vegetables and crafts, the pretty squares and parks, the sprawling blocks of flats. It’s a fascinating, bustling, sunny, active city.

This morning we went to New Day Centre (NDC) in Bathore.  John (Global Care’s CEO) told us how much everything has changed in the 17 years of Global Care Albania. Bathore is a suburb of Tirana, with apartment blocks, shops, tarmac roads, schools and health centres, running water and electricity - where once there was no infrastructure. NDC is a bright, peaceful place, right on the outskirts of Bathore. Behind the buildings a nearby glorious range of high mountains dominates the view. We were given a guided tour, meeting the staff who provide a homework club, day care/kindergarten and youth group.  In each room we were greeted with smiles.  



We met children who attend day care - younger children from vulnerable families. 2 of the children were having physiotherapy, and 4 boys with autism were in a group therapy session.



We were told that some of the children are at risk of being involved in criminal activities or sexual exploitation – NDC aims to lay a foundation that will offer these children hope for their futures.  Children are orphans, or come from families with little or no employment opportunities. Often the parents themselves have had no education and can see little point in school. For children with disabilities life is particularly hard. Children arrive at the centre with little self-worth – we were particularly struck by the aim to give children dignity.  
Some children or even families are subject to discrimination. The only facilities available to children with disabilities in Tirana are in private centres – and vulnerable families can’t afford to pay for 2 hours’ treatment. At NDC, children have therapy, education and food. It’s pretty impressive.  We were delighted to realise that at NDC vulnerable children belong to a warm loving community where they have great facilities – and why shouldn’t they? They have the right to receive the best care.

We visited some homes too. Suddenly it all made sense. At NDC we met 4- year-old *Isaac and his sister *Sally. They belong to the Roma community living in Bathore.  Isaac is blind in his right eye as a result of an untreated condition. Thanks to Global Care and NDC, he receives treatment for his left eye and the team hope and pray the vision in this eye will be saved. We drove down a narrow bumpy track with shacks at intervals on either side of the road. There were some dodgy looking electricity wires wiggling towards some of the dwellings. We arrived at Isaacs house (we had to walk the last bit) and met his Mother *Rose. As well as the 2 children at NDC, Rose’s 8-year-old daughter is now at a state school, thanks to receiving early education at NDC.  Rose has 4 children, the youngest is 18 months old. Rose told us that they took Isaac to the doctor but couldn’t afford treatment for his right eye. Her husband managed to get a day’s work 4 days ago – mixing concrete for a construction job. Sometime Rose works sewing shoes at home – she’s paid 10p for each pair of shoes, which can take 20mins to an hour to complete. We agreed this was an example of modern slavery. They live in a simple brick structure which they usually share with a relative – but he’s in prison. There is one room for all 6 of them to sleep in – but when it rains it leaks. Their living room is basically a three-walled shelter. They get water from a nearby lake – but their drinking water comes from a neighbour who has a well.  The children don’t have food at home – they get breakfast and lunch at NDC, the rest of the family had a bag of spaghetti and some sugar to eat today. The family get a small monthly amount from the state because of where they live, but because they’re unregistered, the children haven’t had vaccinations. When Rose gave birth last time, she left the hospital as soon as she’d delivered – and before they realised she couldn’t pay.

For most of the community this lifestyle means living from day to day – if their hope is to survive until tomorrow, what’s the point in education for the children? Rose and her husband are quite amazing. They understand that the only way to break the cycle of poverty is for the children to be educated, to get jobs and to support the family – or even live independently. NDC has a van to transport children to Day Care. Before the van, because Rose’s husband didn’t work, he used to bring the children to NDC – a not inconsiderable distance. 

We didn’t get much time to digest all this before we were introduced to the home of a family with 7 children. The parents and some of the children have intellectual disabilities. One of the daughters is a prostitute, the boys are in and out of prison. The house? An outdoor yard which was mostly a rubbish tip with a couple of sofas in the corner. The sleeping area was 2 concrete shelters with a selection of filthy mattresses.

What worries me more than anything is that although it was unbelievably shocking, I didn’t feel anything. I’ve realised I need this trip to remind me of the depths of horror of some human living conditions – to jolt me out of my complacency that I’m ‘doing my bit’. Who am I kidding? Its all very well looking at beautiful environments and regenerated cities – but I’ve got to stop closing my eyes to the bits that aren’t visible.  

Tomorrow we’re working on plans for more facilities for children with autism, and I’m going to hear more stories and meet young people who started life at NDC and are now have healthy, working adults.  I’m so impressed by the team here, their determination to give hope to children whose situation appears hopeless.  Tomorrow I’m going to open my heart as well as my ears; hear the pain behind the stories, the anguish of the parents – and not be afraid to feel the suffering. 

*Names changed to protect identity

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